An Island with no Elephants and the Gateway to India … Mumbai


Woolly says – Having found how slowly the traffic moves in Mumbai I’d taken the precaution of collecting breakfast and several snacks to keep me going on the four kilometre drive to one of India’s iconic buildings. The hour or so’s drive took us past small shanty towns before pulling up in a much more salubrious location. Having checked the ferry timetable, we had no time to pause and admire the Gateway to India but leapt onto our ferry in the search of elephants.

It didn’t seem to matter how many times we told him that Elephanta Island didn’t have a single elephant he persisted in thinking that we were on an elephant hunt!

Woolly says – the hour long ferry ride took us from Mumbai’s harbour and across the sea past huge oil rigs and massive ships on there way around the world, I was more entertained by the family sat opposite us, who’s young son was proving a nightmare for them to control, I watched Jo grimace on a number of occasions and just knew that she was itching to say something about his behaviour. We pulled onto Elephanta island, given its name by 16th century Portuguese explorers, after seeing a monolithic basalt sculpture of an elephant which they had found near the entrance. They decided to take it home but ended up dropping it into the sea because their chains were not strong enough. Later, this sculpture was moved to the Victoria and Albert Museum by the British, before being returned to Mumbai in the twentieth century. We climbed off the boat and set off at a fast trot past the hundreds of stalls selling trinkets and drinks that led upwards towards the caves that the Island is now famous for. Up and up we went until my paws were sore and I was incapable of going any further although another hundred or so steps were still to be climbed, I looked at my carer in the hope of a respite but that appeared to be in the shape of a bottle of cold water before we hurried on, just as I thought I couldn’t go another inch we arrived at the top and I collapsed in a heap.

We were all out of breath and having stood for a while enjoying the view of the jetty far below us and a family of monkeys who were lovingly caring for their baby we got ready to move on.

Woolly says – Speak for yourself I was exhausted! I staggered over to the information sign and took my time reading what it had to say. The Elephanta Caves are a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a collection of cave temples predominantly dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva, there is some controversy over the dating of them with some scholars thinking that they were developed between the 5th and 9th century, and others placing them between 5th and 7th centuries. The first cave was a cool heaven and having stood admiring the pillars for a while I ventured further in, huge carvings of Shiva greeted my eyes some in better shape than others, a shrine room was guarded by two lions, sadly one of them had lost his head but the other was a fine specimen, I checked in side the room for elephants, but they were sadly lacking. Next to this cave was a second cave, again the pillars were beautifully carved and further figures of Shiva were mounted on the walls, we wandered happily for a while enjoying the cool environment and trying to ignore the selfie happy Indians. Having checked every nook and cranny and found no elephants we made our way out and along the pathway to the next cave.

The first two caves had been a delight but the third although decorated with pillars and some carvings still to admire they had little to see inside….. including elephants!

Woolly says – No elephants but lots of monkeys to amuse us. The next cave was smaller and except for the doorways had little to take our interest, with the final and last cave being blocked to the public which was a shame as it’s low ceilings and dark depths would have made great fun to explore. Our walk back gave us a chance to admire the views and having sat for a while with some cold drinks and a snack to keep me going I felt slightly disappointed that there was nothing else to see, somehow I had expected more. Jo however had been reading the guide book and after a short debate about the length and state of my paws and legs we set off to find the cannons. I was very glad that I was being carried as we clambered up more and more steps, I could feel the sweat dripping onto my fur from my carer’s brow as we arrived at what looked like an old battalion. Having glanced around I could hardly believe my eyes at the size of the cannon set onto a large metal disc high above the shore line. It was a whopper and defiantly the biggest I have seen, the thought of how much damage it could have caused when in full working order was frightening. Further up the trail and just as Jo needed oxygen we found the second immense cannon, whilst the women spent several minutes trying to get it onto one photograph frame, I looked out across the valley and the lines of oil rigs that provided the view, not what you would want to wake up to in the morning. With nothing else to see I skipped back along the dusty road and down the huge numbers of steps ready for our ride back to the city.

It seemed that going down didn’t’ present any problems for his legs and paws!

Woolly says – As the boat pulled away from the elephant less island I sat back for the hours crossing enjoying the cool sea breeze and trying to count the number of oil rigs and ships. As we neared the harbour entrance I suddenly realised that we had the best view of the gateway possible and having nudged Jo to ensure that pictures were taken I delighted in the view. The monument was erected to commemorate the landing of King George V and Queen Mary at Apollo Bunder on their visit to India in 1911, although not completed until 1924. One of the most well known buildings in India it stands at 26 meters (85 feet) high and has been used as a symbolic ceremonial entrance to India for Viceroys and the new Governors of Bombay over the years. Standing proudly next to it is the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel with it’s domed roofs which was a fine example of architecture.

I hadn’t known about the Taj Palace Hotel until reading a book whilst in Sri Lanka, it’s amazing what free kindle books you come across! Although a work of fiction it told of the terrorist outbreak that took place on the 26th November 2008, during which a lot of material damage occurred, including the destruction of the hotel’s roof in the hours following. Hostages were taken during the attacks and held in the property for a three day battle between the attackers and the police. At least 31 died at the Taj.

Woolly says – A sad history to have and one that will hopefully not be repeated. Having taken every picture possible at every angle available we found ourselves a cooling place for some food, home comforts instead of our usual curry as we tucked into Pizza and raised our glasses to those that had lost there lives in the city when under siege and our delight at being there.

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