A Sunny Day and a Wonderful Castle … Chepstow

Woolly says – What a week it’s been, mud up to the armpits, torrential rain, freezing fogs, hail and an odd snippet of sunshine, I found myself going through all manner of weather conditions on a daily basis. Today however had dawned bright and sunny, an ideal day to get out and see some more of the area that we work in and today we were heading south to the small town of Chepstow.

Chepstow is a town in Monmouthshire, Wales, adjoining the border with Gloucestershire, England. Located on the tidal area of the River Wye, it is the easternmost settlement in Wales. The port of Chepstow became noted in the Middle Ages for its imports of wine, and also became a major centre for the export of timber and bark, from nearby woodland in the Wye Valley and Forest of Dean. In the late eighteenth century the town was a focus of early tourism as part of the “Wye Tour”, and the tourist industry remains important. Chepstow is also well known for its racecourse, which has hosted the Welsh National each year since 1949.

My interests lay in the castle of course and arriving in the carpark I rubbed my hands together in glee at my first view of the impressive structure.

To allow Alfie the Dog to do his bits we set off to have a look at the outside first, it was huge with its mighty towers and battlements perched up above on the bank.

Chepstow Castle is the oldest surviving post-Roman stone fortification in Britain which is quite a claim to have. Construction began in 1067 under the instruction of the Norman Lord William FitzOsbern, it was the southernmost of a chain of castles built in the Welsh Marches, and with its attached lordship took the name of the adjoining market town in about the 14th century. In the 12th century the castle was used in the conquest of Gwent, the first independent Welsh kingdom to be conquered by the Normans. It was subsequently held by two of the most powerful Anglo-Norman magnates of medieval England, William Marshal and Richard de Clare. By the 16th century its military importance had waned, and parts of its structure were converted into domestic ranges. Although re-garrisoned during and after the English Civil War, by the 1700s it had fallen into decay. The ruins were Grade I listed on 6th December 1950.

Walking up the pathway to the gatehouse I was delighted to see some beautiful gates that although modern were definitely in keeping with its heritage.

With Barking Boy leading the way we headed into the old kitchens built between 1272 and 1284, Jo and I stood admiring the large fireplace wondering how many meals it had produced in its lifetime.

Empty windows gave glimpses of the views across the Wye Valley.

A small room next door needed to be investigated and you can only imagine my delight when I realised that it had once been the latrines.

Leaving my small companion to admire the toilets I headed down some steps and onto a small terrace area where the Lords and Ladies would have once sat to admire the river, I just hoped it hadn’t been as brown as it currently was in their day. It also gave me an idea of how much more there was to see still.

Woolly says – Following the human and four legged mutt further down the steps we arrived in the wine cellar with it’s beautifully vaulted ceiling a small arched entrance would have once been used to pull the barrels of wine and ale up off the ships on the river.

Heading back up stairs we arrived in the Great Hall where huge feasts would have been held, it also had one of the oldest castle doors in Europe at over 800 years old.

A small entrance took us into the bottom of a ruined tower before leading us into the second section of the castle and it’s great tower which ahs been constructed by order of William the Conqueror himself.

A huge wall at the far end looked incredible with its arched décor where if you looked closely you could apparently see some of the original plaster work. Being so high up no one was likely to really notice it.

The other walls contained large empty windows and doorways where other floors would have once been above our heads.

Continuing upwards we passed through an area which had all manner or windows and doorways which would have once led to apartments for guests. A rather fine bench took my eye before I realised that we had arrived in the Upper Barbican of the castle.

This looked even more splendid with two further towers to peek into. The views from this height were said to have inspired the artist JMW Turner and I could understand why.

Arriving in the Middle Bailey we had a grandstand view across the castle grounds and river beyond.

I wandered along the walls finding another tower and a curious area that might have been used as a guard post.

As we turned back on ourselves Jo pointed to one of the doorways and the decorative features above it which must have looked incredible in its day.

It was a fabulous castle, and I was sad to leave, the river was calling though and the bridge that I had spotted from the castle walls.

A short walk brought us to the banks of the Wye and the Old Bridge Road. The Wye Bridge spans the second highest tidal range in the world and can exceed 14 metres (46 feet) in one day which must be a bit terrifying for the locals. The cast iron bridge had been opened in 1816 and had managed to stay out of the water but only by a few feet at times since it’s construction.

It was a very sweet bridge and gave us a different view of the castle as we headed across it. It also seemed to act as no mans land with Gloucester, England on the far side and Monmouthshire, Wales on the near side.

Woolly says – Good job we don’t need a passport to go between the two countries as I’d left mine back at base. We headed up through the small town pausing to admire the old Alms house and the entrance to a former wine cellar one of many in the town.

The main square had a lovely war memorial and a gun which had been taken from a captured German sub in memory of one of the townsmen who had lost his life on the 25th April 1915, exactly 108 years ago to the day.

Two circular seating areas gave a nod to the history of the town with its fine and produce.

With tummies rumbling away we headed through a small street of shops passing one that displayed all things coronation which is due to happen in the next couple of weeks before arriving at a rather small and quaint pub for a much needed rest and replenishment.

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