All in a Day’s Wash … Mumbai


Woolly says – Our first stop for the day had been a ‘hope and see’ one, we had looked at visiting Bollywood…. well it is Mumbai, home to the huge production of Indian films….. but given the costs we had ruled out a studio visit. Jo, however had found a possible link for The Museum of Indian Cinema as something to sort of tick the box, the links however were tenuous, so we expected nothing.

And nothing was what we got, the newspaper links I had found, had shown great delight in the opening of this new museum but having arrived at large area of ground surrounded by corrugated sheeting, it appeared that building hadn’t even started let alone an opening.

Woolly says – Being well past breakfast and with my tummy grumbling we wandered along, until finding a place that would provide the essential black tea and samosa’s. Having had our fill we decided to walk on until we found a taxi and struck a deal for the second stop of the day at which point I spotted a sign for the Museum, with a large building standing behind it! I tried to surpass my delight which was a good job because having checked with the man sat on security it turned out that the opening wasn’t for a few weeks yet, so with the first attraction a no go, it was onwards to the next.

I was quite excited about seeing what is known as the ‘Human Washing Machine’, Mahalaxmi Dhobi Ghat is an open air laundromat where the washers, known as dhobis, work in the open to clean clothes and linens from Mumbai’s hotels and hospitals.

Woolly says – Well as long as there wasn’t any mammoth washing planned I was up for it. We couldn’t miss the place as we pulled up in the taxi, with rows of open-air concrete wash pens, each fitted with its own flogging stone and thousands and thousands of shirts, sheets, blouses and sari’s drying on racks. It made a spectacle of colour as we peered over the wall. Having clicked a way to get the best shots, I turned to Jo stating that it was a shame we couldn’t actually go around it, just as three young European lads started to tell Zoe that if we went down the steps and through a black door we could get a guided tour for a few hundred rupees, Jo barely waited to thank them for their useful information before trotting downwards, with me and Zoe galloping behind. We were greeted at the gate and having haggled the price down, given that all the money goes to the Ghat workers I felt a bit mean about this but if we had paid the initial asking price I wouldn’t have been eating for the rest of the day! Having surveyed the wet ground and running water everywhere I used my most adoring look to convince Jo that a carry might be the best option.

Although he looked as though he had constipation I knew that the moaning that would ensue if I made him walk through the small streams of water it wouldn’t be worth it so before he could start making promises of good behaviour for the next week, very unlikely to be kept, I picked him up and followed our guide.

Woolly says – the nice man led us past a large number of pens explaining that each man, only men work here, worked for fourteen hours a day, bashing the clothes on the rock and then rinsing it out. Over 7,000 people flog, scrub, dye and bleach clothes on concrete wash pens, dry them on ropes, neatly press them and transport the garments to different parts of the city. He showed us how the hanging garments are fixed onto the drying ropes without pegs, each rope had the same colours on which gave a rainbow affect across the whole area. Some of the wealthier dhobis have given up on manual cleaning and have now installed large mechanical washing and drying machines which means a much higher level of production. We were led through sections of pens were the dying of clothes was taking place and our man showed us his feet and the damage that the constant water, chemicals and soap had done over the thirty years he had lived and worked there, it made me feel quite guilty for moaning when my paws are just tired! As we stepped into a dark area we were shown the oil drums where the hospital linen is boiled before being beaten, seeing the finished product that was glistening white they were certainly doing a good job. Next came the ironing zone where each man irons over six hundred pieces a day, I nearly choked, Jo hasn’t ironed anything in years and used to moan about doing a couple of shirts in her teaching days!

So true, I felt terrible considering the fuss I used to make!

Woolly says – Our chaperone pointed to some padlocked doors set into the walls explaining that the families who worked here lived on the complex as well, the living space seemed smaller than a hamster cage, with around two hundred families having their homes and business there it was a small village in amongst the washing. As we neared the end of the tour we found ourselves stood next to piles and piles of washing waiting to be done, Mrs Tiggywinkle would really have her work cut out, as the man gestured towards me I hoped he hadn’t got any ideas about putting me into one of the tubs and getting me white again!

I would have paid him if he had offered!

Woolly says – Before this idea cold develop any further we handed over our money and ambled back towards the main road, I had really enjoyed that unexpected visit and as we considered what to do next, I felt Mumbai had defiantly given me a whole new experience. It appeared that Zoe had an idea for our afternoons entertainment and happy to go with the flow I listened to the women haggling with a driver who was asking for six hundred rupees to take us to our next port of call but only one hundred and fifty to take us to the place next door, it’s an insane way of life here. Having finally sorted out our ride, for the lower price of course, it appeared that we were heading to the cinema, not what I would call a tourist destination but if popcorn is involved I could be convinced. Having paid for our tickers I made a quick trip to the gentleman’s room, it certainly had a wow factor with it’s onyx sinks and gold and black walls, maybe they should make the cinema a visitor attraction after all, having enjoyed the towels, moisturer and everything else I could get put my paws on I rejoined the girls where things just got better.

He had taken ages and I was seriously starting to worry that he might have fallen down the toilet when he appeared smelling of flowers which made a very pleasant change, I daren’t ask what he had been up to and just hoped the new fresh smell would last a while.

Woolly says – I led the way to our seats or should I say armchairs or even divans, it was luxury beyond my dreams. I had a chair that I cold make into a bed with a cosy pillow and blanket, not to mention service at the press of a button, I was well set for the afternoon. As the lights dimmed and the surround sound boomed out I sat back in anticipation of the main feature, what a way to end our time in Mumbai.

One comment

  1. An intriguing discussion is definitely worth comment. There’s no doubt that that you should write more about this topic, it might not be a taboo matter but generally folks don’t talk about these topics. To the next! All the best!!|

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