The Town that Started Tourism … Ross on Wye

Woolly Says – With some free time and the need to get some ‘bits’ we headed into our nearest town known locally as Ross, unbeknown to Jo I had a plan and as soon as the car pulled up, I put it into place. ‘Could we have a look at the church before getting ‘bits’?’ I asked, my carer looked down at me and Alfie the Dog and considered for a moment, ‘Just the church?’ she enquired, my face broke into a grin ‘Well there are a few other things we could walk past’ I said, she started to laugh which I took to be acceptance so leading the way I set about bringing the human up to speed on the town.

Ross-on-Wye is a market town in England, near the border with Wales, the name Ross is derived from the Welsh or Celtic for a “promontory”. It was renamed Ross-on-Wye in 1931 by the General Post Office, due to confusion with other places of the same or similar name, such as Ross in Scotland, which would be a long way for the postman to go if he got the town wrong, so a sensible development.

Ross-on-Wye claim to fame is that it is the birthplace of British tourism, a strange fact indeed but then tourism in the UK had to start somewhere. The story goes that in 1745, the rector, Dr John Egerton, started taking friends on boat trips down the valley from his rectory at Ross. The Wye Valley’s attraction was its river scenery, its landscapes, and its castles and abbeys, which were accessible to seekers of the “picturesque”. In 1782, William Gilpin’s book Observations on the River Wye was published, the first illustrated tour guide to be published in Britain. Once it had appeared, demand grew so much that by 1808 there were eight boats making regular excursions along the Wye, most of them hired from inns in Ross and Monmouth. By 1850, more than 20 visitors had published their own accounts of the Wye Tour, and the area was established as a tourist destination.

Well, that was a new one for me, I congratulated my short friend on his research as we headed into the town’s parish church.

Woolly says – Set at the highest point of the town its large spire rose high up above the tranquil setting, built in 1242 St Mary’s Church had a number of additions over the years almost doubling in size from the original structure. Inside it was warm and inviting with a timbered roof, sadly the pews had been removed but the otherwise the décor hadn’t changed in decades.

A small side chapel gave us a range of lovely stained glass windows and a beautifully carved memorial to those that had lost their lives in the First World War. Next to it were the most impressive tombs of Rudhall family giving fie examples of monumental sculpture from the 16th and 17th century, as Jo held me up so that I could see them in more detail I had to admit they were beautiful and very intricate in design.

Next to the altar were more tombs and memorials including one to John Kyrle (22nd May 1637 – 7th November 1724) known as The Man of Ross, he was a local hero who dedicated his life to improving the town and surrounding areas with good schools and green spaces, nearby is a pub named after the much regarded man.

We headed outside taking some time to look around the large graveyard, I had debated finding the gave stone for the screen writer Dennis Potter who had written The Singing Detective and Pennies From Heaven but there were so many graves it would have taken me weeks to look at each and everyone. Instead, I led the way into the area known as The Prospect.

The Prospect was created by John Kyrle, The Man of Ross, who rented the land from the Marquess of Bath in 1696 and turned it into a garden and walkway for the local people to enjoy the fresh air and the views across the river far below us. The VE Day Beacon erected to mark the 50 year anniversary of VE Day would have been seen for miles when lit.

In 2008, heavy rain uncovered Roman remains that were excavated under the site, although eager to see them there was not a single clue as to where they might be so I satisfied myself with the lovely War Memorial instead.

Walking back through the church yard we passed The Plague or Corpse Cross which was erected in 1637 as a memorial to 315 townsfolk who died that year of the plague and were buried nearby in a plague pit. By 1896, the Plague Cross had fallen into disrepair and the top was missing. It was later restored and since 24th September 1997 it has been listed as a Grade II monument.

Across the room where the former Alms houses, founded in the fourteenth century and rebuilt in 1575. They were restored relatively recently in 1960, by the Ross Charity Trustees and at this time the five original houses were changed into three larger houses without changing the fronts, they were very quaint and having taken the necessary snap we wandered on.

A short walk away was what looked like the towns castle walls, however there was never a castle here. The Mock Gothic Town Walls were constructed during the building of a new road in 1833 along with The Gazebo Tower which was constructed as a viewing point.

The Tower is one of the finest examples of a folly in Herefordshire and offers panoramic views across the famous horseshoe bend of the River Wye and the surrounding countryside. During September 2001 the Gazebo Tower was put up for sale by Herefordshire Council and is now a private residence which sadly meant no climbing up for me.

As we walked further into the town, we came across a small alley known as Pig Alley which was decorated with lots and lots of pictures of pigs, I pondered its original use and if pigs had once been herded through this small passageway and into the nearby market.

As we arrived at the Market House the mammoth’s excitement knew no bounds as he bounced up and down shouting ‘knitting’ before racing up to and inspecting every knitted eater product adorning the post box, bollards and trees.

Woolly says – I was desperately looking for a lamb for bestie Sion but had to make do with rabbits and chicks instead, each one was beautifully made and really brightened up the town centre.

The Market House still holds markets on Thursday and Saturday’s and makes a wonderful local point to the town.  Built between 1650 and 1654 to replace a wooden structure known as Booth Hall it was lovely, I peered up at what appeared to be a wooden doorway on the first floor with a Juliet balcony where grain might once have been stored and loaded down onto the waiting horses below.

Across the road was the former home of The Man of Ross, a splendid black and white timbered building with a plague of the great man himself adorning the front of the building.

A few paces on brought us opposite the Ross Baptist Church which had been constructed in 1743, I had to wonder what the brickies of the time would have made of the chain stores that now surrounded it.

With only metres to go until we arrived back at the car, I was stopped in my tracks by a shop front which had a large array of metal signs, I love a metal sign which are so much nicer than the billboards and posters used today. Advertising products that are still on sale now as well as items that have longed ceased to be made, I sat happily looking up at them as Jo headed off to get ‘bits’ which would hopefully include food for my gently rumbling tummy.

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